Alpha arbutin is considered a mild tyrosinase-inhibiting alternative to hydroquinone for dark spots. We take a critical look at how it works, the research and the new EU maximum since 2025.

Kojic acid is a fermented tyrosinase inhibitor for dark spots – but since 2025 it has a new EU maximum of 1% in face and hand care. We take a critical look at how it works, the research and the regulatory background.

Azelaic acid is considered a quiet all-rounder against acne, rosacea redness and dark spots. We take a critical look at how it works, what the research shows and its regulatory status – and where the limits of cosmetic concentrations lie.

Tranexamic acid was originally a medicine to stop bleeding and is now advertised in serums against dark spots. We take a critical look at how it works, what the research shows and its regulatory status – and why no ingredient helps against melasma without sun protection.