Quark, vinegar, toothpaste: there are many home remedy myths about sunburn. We look at what the research on aloe vera, ceramides and co. really shows – and where the line to medical treatment lies.

Oil or gel – which really cares for your skin better? We look at the chemical differences between humectants, emollients and occlusives and why the answer depends on your skin type, not on the trend.

Micellar water is considered a gentle all-rounder for cleansing without rinsing. We look at what the research really shows about surfactants, the skin barrier and the ‘no rinsing needed’ claim.

Rose water, chamomile hydrosol & co. are considered gentle natural cosmetics classics. We look at what the research on hydrosols really shows – and why they aren't enough as your only moisturiser.

Mandelic acid is considered the mildest AHA and is especially recommended for blemish-prone, acne-prone skin. We look at what its larger molecular structure really means, what the research shows about its antibacterial effect – and why it is a regulatory special case for certified natural cosmetics.

Sulfur is considered a traditional insider tip for blemish-prone, oily skin. We look at what the older dermatological research really shows, why the ingredient is difficult to formulate – and why Cosmenia relies on odourless zinc alternatives.

Allantoin is considered one of the best-tolerated soothing ingredients in cosmetics – we look at its effects, origin and research and explain why Cosmenia relies on plant-based alternatives with a comparable effect.

Salicylic acid is considered the standard ingredient for blemishes – we take a critical look at its effects, irritation risk and the so-called purging phase, and explain why Cosmenia's Clear Skin Set relies on milder AHA fruit acids and zinc instead.

Kaolin clay is considered the mildest of the healing clays for blemishes – we look at what it really does, where its limits lie and why Cosmenia's Clear Skin Set relies on a more flexible, daily alternative.

Retinal is considered the stronger, faster version of retinol. We look at how much of that is backed by studies, what the new EU limits since November 2025 mean – and why neither is an option for certified natural cosmetics anyway.

LED red light masks are currently the beauty trend. We look at what photobiomodulation really does for fine lines according to current studies, where the dose becomes a problem with home devices – and why red light doesn't replace a natural skincare routine.

Many people see glycerin as a cheap filler in the INCI list. We look at what the research really shows about moisture binding, barrier function and the right concentration.

Snail mucin is one of the biggest K-beauty trends of recent years. We take a sober look at the research – and at why the ingredient is a problem from an animal welfare and natural cosmetics perspective.

Beta-glucan is considered a soothing barrier ingredient backed by solid basic research. But many of the percentages cited for redness reduction and wound healing come from individual studies or pharmaceutical contexts that can't be transferred one-to-one to cosmetic creams.

The skin barrier isn't a 100 percent impermeable shield, but selectively permeable. EU studies and SCCS opinions show that most ingredients stay on the surface, but a small group of small, fat-soluble substances demonstrably penetrates – which is exactly why it's worth looking at the INCI list.

Kojic acid is a fermented tyrosinase inhibitor for dark spots – but since 2025 it has a new EU maximum of 1% in face and hand care. We take a critical look at how it works, the research and the regulatory background.

Azelaic acid is considered a quiet all-rounder against acne, rosacea redness and dark spots. We take a critical look at how it works, what the research shows and its regulatory status – and where the limits of cosmetic concentrations lie.

Ectoin is an extremophile cell-protecting substance with unusually solid research behind it. We look at how the ingredient binds moisture and protects against UV stress – and where the limits of the manufacturer-affiliated data lie.

Slugging promises plump skin overnight thanks to an occlusive layer. We look at what the method really does for the skin barrier, why classic petroleum jelly isn't an option in natural cosmetics – and which skin types benefit from plant-based alternatives.

Screens are supposedly making our skin age – the term ‘digital ageing’ has been doing the rounds for years. We look at how much truth there is to the worry about blue light, what the research on visible light actually shows and where sun protection really makes sense.

Skinimalism promises better skin with fewer products instead of ever more active ingredients. We look at what's behind the trend, what research on ingredient overload shows – and how to put a reduced routine into practice with certified natural cosmetics.

Scrub granules or fruit acids – which is gentler on the skin barrier? We compare physical and chemical exfoliation based on current research and show which method suits which skin type.

Vitamin E is one of the oldest antioxidants in cosmetics – but there's plenty of nuance between tocopherol and tocopheryl acetate, free radicals and occasional contact allergies. We look at what the research really shows and why vitamin E is most convincing paired with vitamin C.

Urea is one of the oldest and best-researched moisturising ingredients in skincare. We look at how concentration changes its effect, what the research really shows for eczema – and why urea is one of the few synthetic exceptions in the rules for certified natural cosmetics.

Panthenol has been a classic for dry, irritated skin for decades. We look at what the research on the skin barrier and wound healing really shows – and where pharmaceutical data from wound ointments is wrongly transferred to cosmetic products.

Bisabolol from chamomile is considered a classic for redness and irritation. We look at what the research really shows – and why the difference between natural and synthetic bisabolol is decisive, especially for certified natural cosmetics.

Aloe vera is considered a classic for dry, irritated skin. We look at what the research on moisture, wound healing and anti-ageing really shows – and why the actual aloe content of a product often matters more than the marketing.

‘Collagen booster’ sounds like a single ingredient, but it hides approaches with very different levels of evidence. We separate marketing from mechanism – and show which plant-based peptides actually deliver according to science.

AHA fruit acids such as glycolic and lactic acid are considered gentle exfoliating ingredients for home use. We take a critical look at how they work, concentration limits and the risk to the skin barrier – and at what a safe routine looks like.

Horse chestnut extract with aescin is considered an insider tip against eye bags and puffiness. We look at what the research really supports – and why it comes mainly from oral use for vein disorders, not from eye creams.

Tranexamic acid was originally a medicine to stop bleeding and is now advertised in serums against dark spots. We take a critical look at how it works, what the research shows and its regulatory status – and why no ingredient helps against melasma without sun protection.

Centella asiatica is considered a K-beauty star for calm, repaired skin. We assess what current research on wound healing, scarring and the skin barrier really shows – and where marketing is ahead of the science.

Sea buckthorn oil is advertised as an omega-7 booster for the skin barrier. We take a critical look at its active compounds, the research and the difference between oral and topical use.

Zinc PCA is advertised as a mild alternative to benzoyl peroxide for blemish-prone skin. We take a critical look at how it works, the research and its regulatory status – and when the ingredient is really worth it.

Squalane is considered a ‘skin-identical’ ingredient, but chemically it isn't identical to the squalene the body produces at all. What plant-based squalane really does, how it is made and where marketing goes too far.

Hyaluronic acid is in almost every moisturising product today. An additional serum containing only hyaluronic acid is therefore often an unnecessary expense – a critical look at when it's still worth it and when it isn't.