Sheet masks promise plump, glowing skin in 20 minutes. We explain what the occlusion effect really does, why the effect usually doesn't last long, what waste footprint is behind the single-use trend and how to get the same moisture boost more sustainably.

High or low molecular weight: with hyaluronic acid, molecular size is often marketed as an efficacy promise. A critical look at penetration studies, the possible irritation potential of small fragments and why a combination usually makes more sense than isolated ‘deep action’.

Gua sha and face yoga promise a lift without injections. What the few studies actually show, what's realistic and how to massage gently.

Adaptogens such as ashwagandha or reishi are supposed to bring stressed skin back into balance. What the extracts actually do, how thin the research is and what really helps stressed skin.

Collagen powders and drinks promise firmer skin from within. We look at the current research and the regulatory situation on health claims, and show which skincare targets the skin's structure.

Dermaplaning uses a fine blade to remove vellus hair and dead skin cells in one step. What really happens to the skin barrier, which promises the research doesn't support and what matters in aftercare.

Copper peptides such as GHK-Cu are considered the next big anti-ageing ingredient. We take a critical look at the research – and at why the synthetically produced peptide is a fundamental problem for certified natural cosmetics.

PHAs are considered the gentlest category of exfoliating acids – larger than AHA molecules, less irritating and without an EU concentration limit. We look at what gluconolactone & co. really do for sensitive skin and where their limits lie.

Does fasting really give you clear skin? We look at the research, from small psoriasis studies to a 2026 systematic review, and assess what is proven and what isn't.

Cloud skin is considered the big beauty trend of 2026 – a soft, semi-matte complexion with an inner glow. We explain what's really behind it from a skincare perspective and how to achieve the look with certified natural cosmetics.

Itchy, uniform little bumps that simply don't respond to classic anti-acne care? Often the cause is not bacteria but yeast colonising the hair follicles. We look at what sets fungal acne apart from real acne, why many skincare products tend to make it worse – and which care makes sense.

Skin flooding promises plump, dewy skin by layering moisturising products onto damp skin. We look at the science behind the viral trend, where its limits lie – and how to add the principle sensibly to a natural skincare routine.

Ferulic acid is often marketed as an anti-ageing star in its own right. But the most solid evidence mainly shows one thing: it stabilises vitamins C and E and doubles their photoprotective effect – as a solo ingredient, the research is much thinner.

Alpha arbutin is considered a mild tyrosinase-inhibiting alternative to hydroquinone for dark spots. We take a critical look at how it works, the research and the new EU maximum since 2025.

Ceramide NP or plant-based ceramides from rice and wheat – what is really the difference? We take a critical look at the production, research and natural cosmetics certification of both forms.

Oil or gel – which really cares for your skin better? We look at the chemical differences between humectants, emollients and occlusives and why the answer depends on your skin type, not on the trend.

Micellar water is considered a gentle all-rounder for cleansing without rinsing. We look at what the research really shows about surfactants, the skin barrier and the ‘no rinsing needed’ claim.

Rose water, chamomile hydrosol & co. are considered gentle natural cosmetics classics. We look at what the research on hydrosols really shows – and why they aren't enough as your only moisturiser.

Mandelic acid is considered the mildest AHA and is especially recommended for blemish-prone, acne-prone skin. We look at what its larger molecular structure really means, what the research shows about its antibacterial effect – and why it is a regulatory special case for certified natural cosmetics.

Sulfur is considered a traditional insider tip for blemish-prone, oily skin. We look at what the older dermatological research really shows, why the ingredient is difficult to formulate – and why Cosmenia relies on odourless zinc alternatives.

LED red light masks are currently the beauty trend. We look at what photobiomodulation really does for fine lines according to current studies, where the dose becomes a problem with home devices – and why red light doesn't replace a natural skincare routine.

Snail mucin is one of the biggest K-beauty trends of recent years. We take a sober look at the research – and at why the ingredient is a problem from an animal welfare and natural cosmetics perspective.

Beta-glucan is considered a soothing barrier ingredient backed by solid basic research. But many of the percentages cited for redness reduction and wound healing come from individual studies or pharmaceutical contexts that can't be transferred one-to-one to cosmetic creams.

The skin barrier isn't a 100 percent impermeable shield, but selectively permeable. EU studies and SCCS opinions show that most ingredients stay on the surface, but a small group of small, fat-soluble substances demonstrably penetrates – which is exactly why it's worth looking at the INCI list.

Kojic acid is a fermented tyrosinase inhibitor for dark spots – but since 2025 it has a new EU maximum of 1% in face and hand care. We take a critical look at how it works, the research and the regulatory background.

Azelaic acid is considered a quiet all-rounder against acne, rosacea redness and dark spots. We take a critical look at how it works, what the research shows and its regulatory status – and where the limits of cosmetic concentrations lie.

Ectoin is an extremophile cell-protecting substance with unusually solid research behind it. We look at how the ingredient binds moisture and protects against UV stress – and where the limits of the manufacturer-affiliated data lie.

Slugging promises plump skin overnight thanks to an occlusive layer. We look at what the method really does for the skin barrier, why classic petroleum jelly isn't an option in natural cosmetics – and which skin types benefit from plant-based alternatives.

Screens are supposedly making our skin age – the term ‘digital ageing’ has been doing the rounds for years. We look at how much truth there is to the worry about blue light, what the research on visible light actually shows and where sun protection really makes sense.

Skinimalism promises better skin with fewer products instead of ever more active ingredients. We look at what's behind the trend, what research on ingredient overload shows – and how to put a reduced routine into practice with certified natural cosmetics.

Scrub granules or fruit acids – which is gentler on the skin barrier? We compare physical and chemical exfoliation based on current research and show which method suits which skin type.

Vitamin E is one of the oldest antioxidants in cosmetics – but there's plenty of nuance between tocopherol and tocopheryl acetate, free radicals and occasional contact allergies. We look at what the research really shows and why vitamin E is most convincing paired with vitamin C.

Bisabolol from chamomile is considered a classic for redness and irritation. We look at what the research really shows – and why the difference between natural and synthetic bisabolol is decisive, especially for certified natural cosmetics.

Aloe vera is considered a classic for dry, irritated skin. We look at what the research on moisture, wound healing and anti-ageing really shows – and why the actual aloe content of a product often matters more than the marketing.

‘Collagen booster’ sounds like a single ingredient, but it hides approaches with very different levels of evidence. We separate marketing from mechanism – and show which plant-based peptides actually deliver according to science.

AHA fruit acids such as glycolic and lactic acid are considered gentle exfoliating ingredients for home use. We take a critical look at how they work, concentration limits and the risk to the skin barrier – and at what a safe routine looks like.